By M. H. REED

Published: January 14, 2007

INFORMAL Hanlon’s styles itself as a neighborhood spot — its curved wooden bar the focus of an ample lounge, crowded and convivial, particularly on weekends. Now in its second year of operation, Hanlon’s has come to be a lot more than that. Its position on the edge of the restaurant-poor Taconic Parkway also makes it a convenient stop for those out-of-towners heading for or back from a weekend in the country or on the ski slopes.

Long Island, Westchester, Connecticut and New Jersey

More friendly than fancy, Hanlon’s can hold its own against the hype of the well-advertised, higher-priced chain steakhouses. James Russell, the owner and chef, butchers the cuts himself, and he doesn’t hold back. He is all about quality beef, cut beautifully, portioned generously and, not least, cooked and timed carefully.

Unlike most steakhouses that serve steak naked on the plate and pad the bill by charging extra for side dishes, Hanlon’s includes the sides as part of the entree. Our selections came with potato (plain or nicely seasoned stuffed), a mélange of julienne vegetables and, on some plates, a lovely gingery Asian salad. Dishes prepared simply are the way to go. Grilled meat, potatoes and salad is an old-fashioned formula that still works here.

The “signature house cut” is the Kansas City steak, usually a boneless strip but here served with the bone in place. Prime rib roast was one evening’s special, and diners could choose the degree of doneness. The piece was tender and full of flavor whether ordered well done from the end or medium rare from within. Many of the steak cuts are from or near the tender short loin, like porterhouse, prized for the tenderloin cradled on one side of the bone, or T-bone, similar to the porterhouse but with a smaller tenderloin. Sharing — an assumed practice in this family-friendly spot — is usually recommended for the mighty porterhouse, but the T-bone, too, could easily feed a couple of diners.

Of the other meats represented, a rack of lamb special needed an additional pinch of seasoning to underscore the meat’s sweetness. Stuffed pork chop seemed more herb stuffing than meat — but why bother with this item when the beef is so stellar? Also avoid the mealy, bland swordfish, the unlikely catch of the day on one visit.

Starters are almost an afterthought, but they’re nice to have while sipping a glass of wine or a martini and waiting for the sizzle. That Asian salad or even the old-fashioned iceberg wedge with blue cheese dressing would be prudent. But the broiled sea scallops wrapped in bacon were tasty numbers (better without the sweet apricot jam they call “chutney”), and steamed clams in a fragrant garlic broth made pleasing little mouthfuls. Or try a half-order of penne with shrimp, broccoli and a terrific garlic sauce.

Soups were warming and satisfying. The red bean with sausage was based on a vibrant coarse purée of vegetables; the New England clam chowder, though thick with cream, was still about the clams, loads of them. Crab cakes and fried calamari proved to be standard issue.

It’s best to skip desserts, which are overly sweet and creamy — except, perhaps, for vanilla ice cream, straight up, the closest I’ve come to having a Mello-Roll in years.

Hanlon’s is not without problems. On one visit there were long waits between courses. Dull steak knives force diners to saw through meat that is actually meltingly juicy and tender. And live music, available on some weekends, may not be the reason to come here. But on a long dark stretch of the Taconic Parkway, Hanlon’s is a welcome stop for stick-to-your-ribs, moderately priced food geared not only to the neighborhood crowd but to the traveler passing through as well.

Hanlon’s Neighborhood Steakhouse

151 Bryant Pond Road

Mahopac

(845) 526-9011

GOOD

THE SPACE Unpretentious, sprawling dining area with fireplace in a roadside house. Popular tables near the fireplace are usually reserved. Lighting inadequate in spots. High noise level at peak moments. Wheelchair accessible.

THE CROWD Multigenerational, from family and office groups to couples. Helpful waiters. Live music on some weekends.

THE BAR Separate bar and lounge with unobtrusive TV. Bar menu, $9 to $13. Broad-ranging wine list with plenty of decent choices for under $50. Martini list.

THE BILL Main dishes, $15 to $33; porterhouse for two, $39. Children’s menu, $10 to $12. Major credit cards accepted.

WHAT WE LIKE Steamed clams, broiled sea scallops in bacon, Asian salad, shrimp and broccoli over penne (all’aglio e olio); Kansas City steak, special prime rib, special rack of lamb, porterhouse, T-bone, stuffed potato; vanilla ice cream.

IF YOU GO Dinner, Tuesday to Thursday 4 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 4 to 9 p.m. Reservations necessary on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

Reviewed Jan. 14, 2007